KITCHEN MAGIC

Risotto

By DAVID SPITZER
Special to the Saipan Tribune

The rice recipes of Spain, Portugal and Italy are all Arabian in inspiration. The grain was probably introduced to Europe by Alexander the Great before 300 B.C. It was not cultivated in Europe in any quantity until the Moors brought it to the wetlands of Southern Spain. European rice recipes are characterized by a preliminary turning in hot oil, often with relatively small quantities of meat, fish, and/or vegetables for added flavoring, and then a cooking in good broth. The rice is not white-cooked in plain water or until dry, as is customary in India and China. The Italians like their rice as chewy and al dente as their pasta.

Serves: 6
Time: 15minutes plus 20 minutes in cooking

1 pound (2 cups) round rice (preferably Arborio)
1 onion
2 tbsp olive oil
Water or stock (or well-flavored zamponi broth) to cover
1 tsp salt butter
pepper
Parmesan or pecorino cheese

You will need a heavy wide saucepan. Pick over the rice, removing any alien grains. Mince onion in the hot oil until it turns golden-do not overheat the oil or it will turn bitter. Add the rice and fry it gently until it becomes transparent. Add enough water (or a good homemade stock) to cover it to the depth of one minute. Take it off the heat. The Italians like their rice well moistened and soupy, with the grains separate but still slightly nutty in the center.

Meanwhile, put a large flat serving dish to warm. Turn the risotto out onto the hot dish. Scatter with small pieces of butter, freshly milled black pepper, and a generous grating of hard strong cheese.

The only stew with which the Italians serve rice is osso buco (veal stew). Otherwise it is always served on its own, prepared in any one of hundreds of regional variations of added ingredients.

Suggestions:

Pass a fresh meat or tomato sauce separately along with extra cheese.

Risotto can be cooked with chopped chicken livers, little cubes of prosciutto ham or pancetta, fresh green peas (a popular dish called risi e bisi) or fava beans, diced wild mushrooms, baby artichokes, snails, or, perhaps most delicious of all, the prawns, shrimps, or small clams available to those who live close to the sea.

A risotto is also sometimes cooked with saffron threads to color or flavor it—particularly around Milan, where white wine or Marsala may be included with the stock

David Spitzer is the executive chef of Fiesta Resort & Spa Saipan.