KITCHEN MAGIC

MANHATTAN SEAFOOD CHOWDER

By DAVID SPITZER
Special to the Saipan Tribune

Makes 8 Main-Course Servings

It was actually in Rhode Island that tomatoes were first added to chowders that had been made with milk or cream, but this new version somehow became known as “Manhattan.” By the start of the 20th century it was being served and eaten all over New York. Some people sneer at a tomato version of clam or fish chowder, but I love the combination of flavors, which, when seasoned properly, is irresistible. Most fish markets will probably order clams for you if they don’t regularly carry them. If you can’t find fresh clams in your area, use the whole shucked clams in cans from the supermarket.

Seasoning Mix

2 tsp salt
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp dry mustard
1 tsp dried sweet basil leaves
1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves
1/2 tsp dried tarragon leaves
1/2 tsp dried rosemary
1/2 tsp white pepper

Ingredients

30 shucked small hard-shell clams (littlenecks), with their liquid (see note)
1/4 lb bacon, diced
1 1/2 cups chopped onions, in all
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup diced carrots
2 cups quartered tiny new potatoes
3 cups chopped peeled, fresh tomatoes (4 to 5 tomatoes)
2 cups seafood stock, in all
1 cup chopped green onions
1 lb firm white fish fillets, such as tilapia, sole, grouper, or red snapper, cut into bite size pieces

Combine the seasoning mix ingredients thoroughly in a small bowl. Makes 3 tablespoons.

Chop the clams into large rough pieces, or place in a food processor and pulse 5 or 6 times. Set aside.

Place a heavy 8-quart pot over high heat. Add the bacon and sauté until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add 1 cup of the onions and the celery and cook until the vegetables begin to brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the carrots and cook 4 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of the seasoning mix and the potatoes. Cover the pot and cook, stirring once, about 3 minutes. Add 2 teaspoons of the seasoning mix, stir well, cover, and cook 2 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup onions, stir, cover, and cook 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes and 1 teaspoon of the seasoning mix, cover, and cook 4 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of the reserved clam liquid and 1 cup of the seafood stock, cover, and cook 4 minutes. Add the green onions, the remaining 1 cup stock and the remaining seasoning mix. Bring to boil, add the fish and the chopped clams, cover, and cook 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit 5 minutes. Makes about 9 cups.

Serve with oyster or common crackers and a salad.

Note: If you can’t purchase the clams shucked and if you can’t do it yourself, place the clams in a 12-inch skillet with 4 tablespoons water, cover, and steam just until the shells separate enough to get a knife between them, about 1 to 2 minutes. Don’t let them steam fully open. Push the point of a knife with a short, sturdy blade between the shells and pry them apart. Pour the clam liquid into a small container and free the clams with the tip of the knife.

David Spitzer is the Executive Chef of the Fiesta Resort & Spa Saipan.