Giovanni’s got its groove back

Hyatt Regency Saipan executive chef Matteo Fracalossi invites everyone to Giovanni’s Italian lunch buffet. (Mark Rabago)

New executive chef Matteo Fracalossi is bringing the Italian back to Giovanni’s at the Hyatt Regency Saipan.
The Trento, Italy native overhauled the restaurant’s Italian lunch buffet menu since coming on island three weeks ago and the results are simply mouthwatering.

The landmark Garapan hotel hosted members of the media, including vloggers, to a luncheon last Friday that also served as an introduction to Fracalossi and new Food and Beverage  director Hani Min.

Before the luncheon, Min raved about how Fracalossi is personally bringing back his country’s gastronomic heritage to the CNMI’s first brand hotel’s Italian outlet.

Asked what to expect during the luncheon, Fracalossi simply said that everyone must really try his dishes to appreciate them and even though he didn’t say he’s the best Italian chef, he did acknowledge that he grew up in an Italian kitchen and that he knows how to cook Italian food.

For starters, Fracalossi’s revamped all-you-can-eat buffet shows its authentic Italian roots with the menu itself in Italian.

Porchetta or ariccia traditional roasted pork is fast becoming a favorite. (Mark Rabago)

Selezione di antipasti (selection for appetizers) include insalata di mare (seafood, parsley salad, celery, cherry tomato), melanzane marinate (grilled eggplant, oregano, garlic, vinegar, extra virgin olive oil), cavolore broccoli e acciughe (cauliower, broccoli, black olive, bread crouton, anchovy dressing), insalata di riso (rice, ham, mozzarella, grilled vegetable, green pea), caprese (cow mozzarella, tomato, basil pesto), and frittelle di cavolori (cauliower fritters).

The hearty breakfast also includes a create-your-own salad option, homemade bread, street food-style pizza, and a daily chef soup.

The main course starts with scrumptious gnocchi alla Romana, which is baked semolina gnocchi and tomato sauce.

Equally delicious items in the line include pollo and pepperoni (Roman-style chicken stew, bell pepper, parsley) scaloppine al limone (pan-seared pork loin in white wine sauce) cozze alla marinara (mussels in garlic, chili, parsley, and tomato sauce) broccoli saltati (sautéed broccoli with chili and garlic), and millefoglie di patate (layered baked potato)

But the star of the main course was Fracalossi’s porchetta or ariccia traditional roasted pork at the carving station. 

Stuffed cannoli biscotti and Cioccolato di Modica or traditional Sicilian chocolate. (Mark Rabago)

The melt-in-your mouth piece of pork heaven is as crunchy as bacon on the outside and pillowy soft on the inside with Italian herbs oozing in every bite. 

And what Italian buffet is complete without pasta as Giovanni’s has an entire action station devoted to the starchy staple with three types of noodles—spaghetti, penne, linguine—and four types of sauces—pomodoro (tomato sauce, basil, parmigiano), bolognese (beef ragout, parmigiano), pesto alla ligure (basil pesto, potato, green bean), aglio e olio (garlic, chili, extra virgin olive oil, parsley) at everyone’s disposal. 

Those who are easily overwhelmed by choices can simply make a beeline to the pasta of the day and on that particular Friday, rigatoni alla norcina (pork sausage, cream, parmigiano, and thyme) was the option. 

For sweet tooths, Fracalossi and his fast-learning staff have also prepared a delectable dessert spread  that include dolci tiramisu, classico Hyatt Regency signature cheesecake, strawberry bonet, Piedmont chocolate, crème caramel cannoli al limone, lemon custard, stuffed cannoli biscotti, homemade cookies, freshly slice fruits, and the unforgettable cioccolato di Modica or traditional Sicilian chocolate (made from 68% dark chocolate).

The latter is like marrying seasalt and a whole Hershey’s factory into one.

Giovannio’s Italian lunch buffet is available every Friday from 11:30am to 2pm. and is inclusive of iced tea. It costs $36 per person and $27 with Club at the Hyatt member discount. The latest menu can be viewed at Lunch Buffet Menu: https://qrco.de/gvitalianlunchbuffet. For reservations, call (670) 234-1234 ext. 126.